The Alps of Arizona

Cotopaxi, Ecuador - Doubled Back !!!

I first saw the majestic outline of Cotpaxi in National Geographic when I was growing up - oh yeah, I forgot I'm still growing up....so I guess it was around 30 years ago. I was struck by this lone symmetrical pyramid rising from the valley floor to a height of 20,000'. Cotopaxi is reputedly the highest active volcano in the world and the second closest point on earth to the sun; or the second furthest away from the center of the earth - whichever you prefer. Cotopaxi is located in Parque Nacional Cotopaxi, approximately 2.5 hours south of Quito, Ecuador. It is centrally located in the Avenue of the Volcanos and is a major mountain climbing destination on anyone's list that enjoys alpine mountaineering or for the purist "alpinism".

After returning from Argentina in 2006 with frost-nipped toes, (...a future post), I began researching the central Andes for perhaps a little warmer climate for my next expedition....The glaciated volcanos along the equator and access to the Amazon Jungle quickly moved the country of Ecuador to the top of my list. (Although I must admit that Bolivia was a close second.) I began to research various expedition companies and outfitters and decided upon the Ecuadorian Alpine Institute www.volcanoclimbing.com  as a clear choice. My priorities were: English speaking guides, locally owned/operated organization and keeping the expedition team to 6 or under with a guide to client ratio of 2 to 1.  Ramiro, the owner of EAI assured me that my requests would be honored, so in a leap of faith I wire transfered money through Miami and down to a bank in Quito and hoped for the best. I signed on to climb 4 mountains in a little less than a month with Cotopaxi being my primary target.

After acclimatizing through successful ascents of both Pichincha (15,740') and Cayambe (19,550') I felt fairly strong and was ready for my Cotopaxi summit bid. Climbing glaciated volcanos in the Andes is new to me...I'm accustomed to approaching mountains for at least a week and then preparing for an assault on a 6000 + meter peak. Typically after base camp you climb high, cache supplies, then downclimb and sleep low, returning in a day or so to move "camp" up the mountain. In Ecuador you drive your 4x4 vehicle up to 15,000' and stay in a "refugio" a type of hostel on the mountain. This was indeed the case with Cotopaxi and the Refugio Cotopaxi. We drove to the car park, unloaded our supplies and trekked up 45 minutes to the refugio. The refugio is not heated, has generator powered lights for part of the evening and no running water. However it does have bunk beds with mattresses - and they'll sell you a semi-cold beer !

Since most of Ecuador's glaciated volcanos/mountains lay in close proximity to the equator, we must climb in the evening with headlamps. This allows for the glaciers to "harden" to hold our weight and also significantly reduces the risk of rock fall and avalanche. Most tall mountains worldwide are climbed at night as a safety measure. So a typical schedule for climbing in the Ecuadorian Andes is to go to bed between 4-5 PM, then rise between 10-11pm and begin climbing at midnight when the glacier is the coldest on the lower part of the mountain. Of course, sleeping is a little bit of a stretch the night of a summit attempt...

Having summitted Cayambe a few days prior to my Cotopaxi attempt I was full of confidence. I also had a pretty good idea of the gear I would be utilizing. I was fairly lightweight on Cayambe and my plan once again was to go as light as possible on Cotopaxi. On top I had 3 nylon wick dry layers with a lightweight breathable rain jacket, on bottom I had on a nylon base layer with my Gore-Tex bibs. Of course double plastic mountaineering boots, one pair of waterproof outer-layer gloves and two inner liners (1 spare), hat, helmet, headlamp, crampons, 70cm ice adze, harness, biners, etc., etc. My pack was less than 15 lbs. as I planned on returning to the Cotopaxi Refugio in 12-15 hours.

I stepped outside the refugio at midnight and was greeted by a 30 mph wind and a blast of snow in my face as a wake-up greeting. We will spend the first hour making our approach to the glacier and at that point will fix crampons and "rope up" in teams of 3 - 2:1 guide ratio. Our guide, Wilson, had gone over the route several times with us the day before and I had a good picture of it in my minds eye. However, once on the glacier it was evident that this was not going to be a normal climb. The visibility was less than 10' and the headlamp was all but useless. We began kicking steps in earnest, first on a 30 degree incline and then onto a 45 degree incline - a 45 degree incline is the same pitch as a 12/12 roof, for every 12" you move forward, there is 12" of vertical. We stayed on the first 45 degree incline for more than two hours. At this point, approximately 4.5 hours into the climb I was having great difficulty with my gear. It was obvious that I had not brought along my Alti-Mittens and expedition weight socks, the ones I usually keep for going over 20,000'. My sad excuse for a hard shell jacket was a lightweight breathable rain jacket - fine for Cayambe, probably OK most the time on Cotopaxi...but not tonight my friend. At this point I had no feeling in the tips of my toes or my fingers - a common affliction with me, but I was only at 18,700' elevation !!!

The next step was the hardest downhill step I've ever taken in my life. I was retreating from Cotopaxi and heading toward the warmth and comfort of the Refugio. I was tremendously upset with myself for turning around, but knew deep inside this was for my safety - I was simply unprepared for the full force and fury of this mountain. Before I left the States I had promised a good friend of mine that I would "climb smart". True, I was making a smart decision by turning around, but my preparations did not include all contingencies for mountain weather, therefore I didn't feel very smart. I was so upset with myself that I did not speak more than a sentence or two to anyone for a couple of days. I noticed that the guides treated me differently, or at least I though they were...All I could think about was getting back to the Cotopaxi Refugio and making a "full on all or nothing attempt" at the summit of Cotopaxi.

We moved on to the next mountain on the agenda - Chimborazo. Which will be the subject of a future post. Once off the mountain I started straight away on our lead guide, ..."So, Wilson, what do you think the weather is like on the summit of Cotopaxi today"....and so forth. Wilson took the initiative and made a call back to Quito to begin the arrangements for us to double back again to Cotopaxi. As we pulled into the car park I knew that you don't get many second chances in life and I was definitely going to make this one pay off - in spades. I knew that to climb this mountain with the existing wind and snow conditions would require an incredible effort and I was of the mind and physical condition to give it everything I had... and then go another 20%.

Wilson and I stepped out of the refugio at midnight and were once again greeted with a cold slap of wind. I had ALL of my high altitude gear with me, there was nothing else to carry. I had even brought along a re-breathing mask designed to warm copper coils on exhale, then introduce warm air into the lungs on inhale - thus raising one's overall core temperature. We quickly moved up to the first glacier fields, put on our crampons, roped up and began the slow and arduous process of kicking steps for hours on end up 45 degree inclines. Climbing glaciated volcanos is different than an alpine ascent on a mountain. The volcano's slopes are constant, there are no ledges to rest, no flat spots to cruise on - it just keeps on getting steeper. By 5AM the conditions were very cold and windy, ambient temperature was far below zero and the winds were 30-50mph. We had reached the "caldera" or outer rim of the volcano, perhaps 700' vertical from the summit, but still hours to reach the summit.

"Wilson, What do you think ?" for the tenth time in the last hour. "We will go slowly, slowly and check the conditions !" By now there was a steady stream of mountaineers down climbing past us and heading for the safety of the refugio. I was in waste deep snow, swimming my way up a 30 degree incline - the ice adze was useless, a canoe paddle would of been useful. We continued to push forward, one step, breathe twice, next step, breathe twice and then rest. All of my water was frozen, my re-breather mask had iced over and was discarded into my pack. I had pulled my collars up as high as I could and was peering out of my iced-over glacier glasses. I have been at this elevation before many times, just under 20,000' and have even slept several nights higher than this altitude...but the snow and wind was debilitating.

Ahead I could see a group of 4 climbers making a go at a traverse across the bottom of the summit cone. We followed in their swath, thankful for the little bit of snow clearing that they provided. We caught up to them ! No, they were turning around and had met us. "It's a no go mates !" said their lead guide, "We cannot push our way through the deep snow !" I felt dejected and once again asked my oft repeated question, "So Wilson, what do you think ?" he again answered "We will go slowly, slowly and check the conditions !"  Onward we slowly moved to within 20' of the groups turnaround point. Wilson looked at me and I could tell he was smiling under his mask, "We will climb direct up the glacier for 60 meters and then access the summit ridge !" as he raised his ice adze high. He had found a way around the deep snow, we were going to front point, (use the front points of the crampons and gain purchase with the ice adzes), our way to the summit. The headwall was over 60 degrees vertical and it was too steep for the snow to stick - the guy is a frickin' genius!!! 

Toe kick, toe kick, slam with the right handed titanium ice adze, breathe twice and repeat. This is what I call "ignore and focus". Forget completely about the fact that you are clinging to the side of a glaciated volcano at 20,000' with little or no feeling in your numb body and focus on the immediate environment around you and the task at hand. I'll bet that 60 meter headwall took a half hour to climb before I could stand on two feet. "Krugie, the summit is right there" Wilson pointed with his adze 50 ' away, "Walk toward it".... "Not without you walking with me my good friend !", I replied smiling.

Wilson and I summitted Cotopaxi that morning and two other climbers arrived on the summit ridge as we were descending. There were over 80 climbers that attempted the mountain that evening and only four of us stood on the summit. I had given my 120% and had my Cotopaxi summit; but not without a price. I had once again frost nipped my toes, along with the left side of my nose and the left side of my upper lip. This was a result of my re-breather mask getting full of ice and discarded in my pack in 55 below wind chill. As I write this post, 2 1/2 months later, I have 95% feeling in my toes. I hold my head high when I view the profile of Cotopaxi... I'll always remember it as the one I doubled back on !!!

Breathe & Believe - Krugie

www.AzAlps.com

Mount Baldy Super Loop - Greer, Arizona

This post is a republish of an article that originally appeared in the Mogollon Gazette in November, 2006 and subsequently was published in the Arizona Outdoorsman Magazine the following year. I have taken the liberty to update portions of the article, however the basic content remains the same.

This is probably the most scenic trail system in the White Mountains. I typically hike the area a dozen times a year. I enjoy starting out along the river and rising up above the valleys to be greeted by 100 mile views. The wildlife is fantastic and for 9 months out of the year, (except the Winter of 2008), the trailheads are very accessible, (however construction has closed portions of CR273- FR113 at this time). The fact that the area is located in the Mount Baldy Primitive Area and adjacent to the Fort Apache Indian Reservation give it a remote and pristine feel.

Directions: There are numerous ways to access the trailheads. From Eagar take US260 west to the Big Lake turnoff (CR261), follow until you intersect with CR 273 (FR113), turn right (west), past the Reservation Lake turnoff, you will first come to the East Baldy Trailhead #95, continue on less than 3 miles and you will come to Sheeps Crossing, (the very next river crossing - a new "modern" bridge is currently being constructed). You will now be located at the unofficial West Baldy Trailhead # 96. From Greer take the Northwoods Road to CR273 (FR113), turn left (east), after a couple of miles you will come to Sheeps Crossing. From Alpine take take FR 249, (Williams Valley Winter Recreation Road), west toward Big Lake, go past Big Lake, you will come to CR273, Turn left (west) and proceed toward Sheeps Crossing using the instructions from Eagar above.

If you are going to hike the 17+ mile Mt. Baldy Super loop, I strongly suggest that you begin at Sheeps Crossing. N3357.590' & W10939.495' (WGS84 Datum on your GPS) - Elevation 9185'. There are two reasons, the first is that you will be finishing somewhat downhill and the second is that you must cross the West Fork of th Little Colorado River right before you finish up on the Crossover Trail. This keeps your feet dry until the end of the hike. If you are going to take a 2-3 hour day hike, either trailhead will work for you. From Sheeps Crossing you are simply going to head south down the well worn trail and you will come to a gate. This gate signifies the "old" West Baldy Trailhead parking lot. Proceed through the gate and turn left on the trail. If you take a right, you will be taken back to the campground. After a quarter mile or so you will come to a sign reading "Phelps Cabin 3.25 miles" - this is the West Baldy Trail side of the Crossover Trail. Continue south on the main trail and you will be treated to a wide-open valley with the West Fork of the Little Colorado River as your companion for several miles. The fishing is actually quite good if the river has been recently stocked.

After an hour or so of easy brisk hiking you will cross the river on a small bridge and begin your ascent to the southeast. There is a very nice rest area along the way with a big rock and great views. (Just past this area now has quite a bit of down timber to "log hop", the Springerville Ranger District has scheduled a clean up) The ascent will dramatically incline for a couple of miles as you begin a series of switchbacks. This is the most strenuous hiking on the Super Loop. The trail is well worn and route finding shouldn't be an issue. After one last u-turn switchback the trail will "top out"at close to 11,000' elevation. At this point you are approximately 1.5 miles to the Reservation Boundary Pole. This portion of the trail is unique since you are cruising along at 11,000' and it's fairly level ! The Reservation Boundary Pole is a small clearing and signifies the intersection of the West Baldy Trail #96 and the East Baldy Trail # 95. N3355.015' & W10933.965' - Elevation 11,195'. If you've made it to this point you've just climbed a little over 2000' of vertical elevation. You can turn around and proceed down the West Baldy Trail or to the north you will see the East Baldy Trail # 95. (The trail leading to the southeast is on the Fort Apache Indian Reservation; access to this area is prohibited, for more information contact them directly.) I strongly urge you to continue north on the East Baldy Trail - you won't be disappointed.

The East Baldy Trail # 95 is in my opinion the more scenic of the two trails. It is not as well trodden as the East Baldy Trail, and offers fantastic panoramic views. Besides that, from the Reservation Boundary Pole, you are less than a half mile to plane wreckage that adds a bit of mystery to your hike. The plane is easy to spot if the vegetation isn't too heavy. You will come to a clearing with lots of rockfall. This is an easy spot to remember since you have to place your feet carefully in order not to twist an ankle, (it's the worst 200' of "bad trail" on the hike). On the far side of the rockfall, look to the south back towards the summit and you will see the wing and fuselage of an older model plane. Your descent will take you across a small bridged-creek, down a couple of switchbacks, and then you will be rolling long fairly level in a northerly direction. After a mile or so, the trail will turn to the east 90 degrees and before you will be a scenic overlook. Take a few minutes to climb up onto the overlook and gaze out across northern Arizona. On clear days you can see Mt. Humphreys in Flagstaff, the Painted Desert, even Escondido Mountain outside of Quemado, NM - well over 100 miles away ! Be careful, the overlook is very steep and rocky; the north side of the overlook is almost a sheer drop off !

Picking up the trail you will descend a couple of switchbacks and the trail will again turn northerly. After a mile or so you will come upon an open area of smooth volcanic rock for 200 yards. This is a great place to kick back and relax. The views are awesome and the darker rock feels wonderful on your bare feet. It's also usually out of the wind. If you're not ready for a rest yet, you are only a mile or so from the greatest picnic area that I've come across in eastern Arizona. N3355.535' & W10931.175' - Elevation 10,170' The area is composed of pyroclastic volcanic rock and there are numerous hoodoos, which offer jaw dropping views. (A "hoodoo" is an irregular pillar of stone and is also the name of our Golden Retriever, a better name than the previous Golden "McFly") Everywhere you look are cool places to sit down and relax, many are wonderful "butt buckets". This area is only a one hour hike from the East Baldy #95 trailhead. If you're not up for doing the full Super Loop, this is a great destination ! Once you descend and switch back through the hoodoos, you will be in a heavily forested area overlooking the drainage for the East Fork of the Little Colorado River. The trail will wind through the woods for a mile, then open up into the valley itself. After another short stint of hiking you will arrive at the East Fork of the Little Colorado River, you are now only a half mile from the #95 Trailhead.

The East Baldy Trail # 95 has a rough little parking area, but can be accessed by cars. N3355.800' & W10929.500' - Elevation 9480' If you don't wish to belly drag your Corvette to the trailhead; you can park out near the road too. I've been to this parking lot numerous times in the winter months - with a 4x4. The trailhead is also home to the former Phelps Cabin, which has since been torn down. As you pass through the gate of the trailhead, th Crossover Trail will be on your right (west). The Crossover Trail itself is a really nice destination for a short afternoon hike. It's 3+ miles long to Sheeps Crossing  and it rolls up and over several small round-tops and drops you back down to beautiful meadows. These meadows are usually full of elk; I have witnessed several herds of cows along with several lone bulls. Even though Sheeps Crossing is lower in elevation than the East Baldy #95 trailhead, the Crossover Trail will give you several good heart pumping uphill slogs during the Beer Frame of your Super Loop hike. The trail will eventually wind down and resemble drainage for a few hundred feet before it drops you off at the West Fork of the Little Colorado River. There was a makeshift log bridge, but not trustworthy for human crossing. You're probably better off picking a narrow spot in the river, grabbing hold of an overhanging branch for balance, and doing your best Olympic long jump to clear the water - or you can just wade across it. Wet feet are not going to ruin your day at this point; you're less than a half mile to Sheeps Crossing. Once safely on the other side of the river, you will see the West Badly Trail # 96 directly before you. This area should look familiar; you were there several hours before. Turn to the north, remember to pass through the gate, and hike back on up to your vehicle. The soft seat of your ride will feel awesome after 6-8 hours on the Super Loop Trail.

This hike took place in late November, 2006. This time of year it can be 50 degrees and windless or you can be "post-holing" through several miles of trail in the higher elevations. From a winter hiking standpoint, make sure you dress in layers. Optimally, an upper body base layer, a middle layer and a jacket strapped on to your pack. Your lower body will do well with windpants and don't forget gloves and a hat. You should not be wearing any cotton at all, no denim jeans or cotton sweatshirts. Cotton works great in the Arizona deserts in the summer, but not at all advisable during the winter months in the mountains. You should be wearing polypropylene, capilene, fleece or nylon.This will allow your body to wick away moisture from sweating and not soak your clothes. A cold winter wind will really get your attention and make your outing far less enjoyable, (if not miserable), if your clothes become wet and then cold.

So stay warm, hike strong and remember to keep smiling - Krugie

www.AzAlps.com

Pichincha, Ecuador - Climbing in the Clouds

Pichincha is located adjacent to the capitol city of Quito in Ecuador and is easily viewed from anywhere in the northern half of the city. It is a series of peaks with two main summits "Rucu" and "Guagua" at a summit elevation of 15,724'. I originally signed on for an Ecuadorian expedition to climb glaciated volcano's. However, to climb 20,000' volcano's one must take care to acclimatize to prevent AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) which can lead to HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) - both of which are the deadly. So to my surprise and delight we were informed by our guides that we would be climbing Pichincha and not taking the normal trekking route. According to the owner of the Ecuadorian Alpine Institute..."these people have skills".

Our expedition included a couple from Colorado Springs - Colleen and Andy; a pair from Singapore - Tengren and Guy Chuan (attending U of Chicago); an Indian college student from the U of Texas - Raghu; a German linguist studying Spanish in Quito - Marko; our two guides from Ecuador Wilson and Hugo; and myself a middle aged Realtor from the mountains of Arizona.

An enjoyable part about climbing in Ecuador is easy access to high mountains/volcanos. Quito itself is at 10,000' nestled in a valley known as the Avenue of the Volcanos. The climber/trekker does not have to spend days approaching these huge mountains on foot or mule, most of the mountains are accessible by 4WD vehicle. This is also the case with Pichincha, a pleasant 20 minute "paved" drive from our hostel to the trail head. The trail head is actually a car park for a large amusement park built on the side of the mountain and is home to the "Telefrinko" - a tramway to the base of Pichincha. It felt a little weird standing in line with all of your gear in your pack with a helmet lashed onto it waiting to catch a tram to climb a mountain. The ten minute tram ride took us up a couple thousand feet to the base of the mountain and drooped us off in an ecosystem know in Ecuador as "paramo". We would consider it high grassy plains with a few bushes but no trees, I would estimate the elevation to be around 12,500'.

Typical Ecuadorian weather during December is cloudy, with more clouds in the forecast. This is the best time of year to climb, since we are on the equator and once the sun is shining conditions change very rapidly - especially on glaciated peaks. So as we made our way up the trail towards the base of Pichincha we were very occasionally greeted by clouds parting and a breathtaking 5 second view of the landscape below. Our gear for this trip was very limited, this was a rock climb, so all we carried was a harness, helmet, carbiners, rope, water, shell jackets and a backpack. Our route to climb Pichincha was very straight forward - we were going to traverse across all of the sister peaks from south to north until we summitted. The normal route is to trek alongside, (1/4 mile north or so), the traverse route as an approach and then scramble and claw up a sandy scree slope to the summit, the normal route is non-technical.

Our first pitch was a up a backbone to gain access to the top portion of the mountain. Rather than belay, we fixed ropes and utilized prussiks (a type of rope ascender) to secure ourselves to the line safely. The rock itself was much different than what I was accustomed too, a flaky granite with lichen, which made footing a bit tricky. It was also very wet, which meant foot placement had to be exact and not regional. Often I would test a hold before committing to the move. As we gained elevation the thick clouds seemed to hang around our bodies, on occasion we were offered glimpses of the peaks we were to climb in short order. The first few hours entailed moderate 5.3 shimmies and cracks utilizing top belays for protection, along with rock scrambles on coiled ropes.

I enjoyed this mountain since the next pitch was always uncertain, you really couldn't see more than 20' due to the dense cloud cover. We bagged and down climbed 4 "false summits" before we started rappelling off the mountain versus down climbing. One particular rappel was quite technical, it involved rapping down a knife edge, then swinging off the edge to rapp down another 20' with a nice 10' pendulum swing at the bottom to terra firma. I was the lucky one to begin this rappel sequence and yelled instructions to my team mates above as they descended, as I was the only one able to view the entire sequence from below. We did have one close call when one of our teammates lost footing and slammed into the mountain on a full pendulum. At first I thought there may have been a broken rib, but thankfully only the wind was knocked out of him - along with a good scare, there was 1000' of air below him.

Finally, we were getting glimpses of the main summit at 15,724' from below. Our summit approach was on coiled ropes with a few scrambles in between. The summit ridge was relatively flat and we could release our carabiners to go off rope and relax with fluids and a bite to eat. There were two cruxes that brought the difficulty rating up to a 5.5. The entire ascent of Pichincha took a little over 6 hours, an excellent warm up. Our descent was via the normal route with some seriously fun "sand scree skiing" for around 500'. The technique is to jump forward down the mountain, land on your heels, ride the sand scree for what it's worth and balance with ski poles. Our backtrack to the  "Telefrinko" tramway took a little over two hours and we were the last group off the mountain. To my delight I was able to purchase a liter of "Pilsner" beer (Ecuadorian national beer) at the top to sip and enjoy in the warmth of the tram car on my way back down through the clouds.

Many thanks to the Ecuadorian Alpine Institute www.volcanoclimbing.com for presenting our team with a fantastic acclimatizing climb at the beginning of our expedition. Ramiro Donoso the owner/director of the institute provided us with two extremely competent guides in Wilson and Hugo - both of which continued to prove themselves with knowledge and experience over the coming weeks on the steep glaciers of Ecuador's volcanos.

On Belay - Krugie

www.AzAlps.com

   

 

Squaw Peak Hiker - Phoenix, Arizona

This mountain was renamed by Governor Janet Napolitano to Piestwa Peak in honor of our first fallen female Native American Arizona soldier in Iraq. I do not disagree with honoring Ms. Piestewa along with her family and heritage for making the ultimate sacrifice for our country. However, I feel that renaming this historic mountain by Governor Janet falls short of paying tribute to the Piestewa family. It was the politically correct "thing to do", but perhaps not sensible. Everyone and I mean everyone still refers to this mountain as "Squaw Peak", without any negative connotations concerning ethnic background. As an Arizonan...I do not believe there ever were any negative connotations except those that existed in Governor Janet's political circle.

I am currently living in the central corridor of Phoenix in the Biltmore area and as an avid hiker wanted to continue my training regime in earnest. Squaw Peak is incredibly easy to get to...Take the 51 (Squaw Peak Freeway) to Glendale Avenue, turn east, go about 1/4 mile past 22nd Street, the next left is Squaw Peak Drive which takes you through a residential neighborhood to the entrance of the Phoenix Mountain Preserve. The gates to the park open at 5AM and are closed at 11PM, there is also a small parking area outside of the gate to access the park without a vehicle. The drive into the park is well marked and the Squaw Peak Summit Trail is the first major left turn. There is okay parking, perhaps for 40 vehicles and on weekends - forget it - you are not parking your car. This entire area is packed full of people and parking is scarce and unforgiving. It's a one way in one way out type of deal. I rarely go to this section of the preserve during weekends since it is a real issue and I'd rather go somewhere sensible. However, during the mornings, especially from 5AM to 7:30AM on weekdays there is ample parking.

Squaw Peak is the second highest peak in Phoenix at 2608', Camelback Mountain has it by around 100'. The Squaw Peak Summit trail is 1.2 miles long and pops you up in 1200' of vertical. Approximately 4,000-10,000 folks hike this trail a month, which most likely puts it in second place as the most hiked trail in Arizona behind Bright Angel at the Grand Canyon. Check out http://phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikephx.html for more info.

Squaw Peak is a short hike, but very steep with treacherous footing. This is an excellent training hike if you are considering doing some hiking in the Grand Canyon or even a Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim. I've hiked into the Grand Canyon over 60 times and am on my 15th R2R2R this spring - so I'm all about getting vertical in the middle of an urban environment.

I am an early riser and I usually get on the Squaw Peak Summit Trail around 5:30AM. This time of year I use a Tikka Plus Halogen headlamp for the first ascent. It does cast a shadow over the rocky footing, but my night vision is poor and I'm accustomed to using headlamps for early morning hikes. Generally I carry two liters of water, an iPod Nano and some Emergen-C drink mix for the summit. All of this goes into a "fanny pack", but a hydration backpack will work just as well.

The first thing that strikes you as you begin the initial ascent up the Summit Trail is the relatively poor condition of the trail. It has been maintained in the past, but obviously Governor Janet's renaming did not have any grant money attached to it, (ouch - low blow by Krugie). Sections of the first tenth of a mile have been concreted, but this has eroded leaving 10" deep dirt pits with the existing concrete next to it. Some of the trail has also been "rip-rapped"  - think Apian Way or Hermits Rest Trail at the Grand Canyon. This is when flat rocks are laid on edge facing up to form a natural drain off the mountain. This really works well, but can be a little difficult on the footing if you don't get up on your toes. It is far preferable to the man made dirt pits and I am thankful to the folks that took the time to lay down the rip-rap. The trail switches back and forth for the first half (.60 mile) with plenty of 16-20" step ups and jagged points of rock under foot. Even though the first half of the trail isn't as steep as the second half - I consider it much tougher due to the irregular footing. Plus, I never really get excited until I've worked hard enough to get a decent view. The half way point begins the hike up the main saddle of Squaw Peak and is full of great vistas.

The second half of the trail continues along the saddle and switches back over to the north side of the peak. This is a little bit of a cruiser for another tenth of a mile and it is best to conserve your energy for the top of the trail. After switching back over to the south side of the peak again you are ready to make a strong push up a series of switchbacks with very high steps on a narrow trail. I enjoy this section of the trail as it is the beginning of the "summit push" and I'm working with controlled breathing techniques. Shortly, you will find yourself along a short promenade looking down at the parking lots below...now come the steps. The first two series of steps take you up to an old metal pipe hitching post. Apparently, this was placed there by Biltmore Hotel cowboys to tie off horses, to service guests to the summit, it now serves as a resting bar for beleaguered hikers. However, I've rode a lot of horses and don't see how a horse could go that steep - of course the steps are man made from natural rock, and the trail may not of been as steep before the hitching post. Once clear of this area you are heading due north down another shorter promenade and you are faced with a very long set of steps, perhaps 80' vertical. This section of the trail is the "burner" you can smell the summit, you know you'll be there in a couple of minutes, but your quads are sending warning signals to your brain and you're doing your best to ignore and focus at the same time. A simple "chimney" rock climbing move at the top of the steps puts you withing 10' of the true summit which is a scramble and a beautiful view.

I am currently in full training for a Rim2Rim2Rim at the Grand Canyon in mid-May. I hike up Squaw Peak, down to the bottom and then go up for my second summit of the morning - it takes right at or a little under 2 hours with short rests at the summit. I do this five times a week. If I really push myself I can summit in less than 25 minutes, but usually I'm up there in around 27-28 minutes. It takes me 30 minutes to descend...due to frost-nipped toes from previous climbing expeditions in the Andes. I personally find the descent much tougher than the ascent, I've been using balancing techniques such as staying off my heels and on my toes to increase my balance points. I also try to "balance-walk" on the "curbs"  near the bottom to increase the strength in my stabilizing muscles.

All in all, the Squaw Peak Summit Trail is a fast and effective way to train along with a great recreational hike for those a little less nuts. either way - you 're still a "peak bagger".

Best of Luck - Krugie

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