Squaw Peak Hiker - Phoenix, Arizona
This mountain was renamed by Governor Janet Napolitano to Piestwa Peak in honor of our first fallen female Native American Arizona soldier in Iraq. I do not disagree with honoring Ms. Piestewa along with her family and heritage for making the ultimate sacrifice for our country. However, I feel that renaming this historic mountain by Governor Janet falls short of paying tribute to the Piestewa family. It was the politically correct "thing to do", but perhaps not sensible. Everyone and I mean everyone still refers to this mountain as "Squaw Peak", without any negative connotations concerning ethnic background. As an Arizonan...I do not believe there ever were any negative connotations except those that existed in Governor Janet's political circle.
I am currently living in the central corridor of Phoenix in the Biltmore area and as an avid hiker wanted to continue my training regime in earnest. Squaw Peak is incredibly easy to get to...Take the 51 (Squaw Peak Freeway) to Glendale Avenue, turn east, go about 1/4 mile past 22nd Street, the next left is Squaw Peak Drive which takes you through a residential neighborhood to the entrance of the Phoenix Mountain Preserve. The gates to the park open at 5AM and are closed at 11PM, there is also a small parking area outside of the gate to access the park without a vehicle. The drive into the park is well marked and the Squaw Peak Summit Trail is the first major left turn. There is okay parking, perhaps for 40 vehicles and on weekends - forget it - you are not parking your car. This entire area is packed full of people and parking is scarce and unforgiving. It's a one way in one way out type of deal. I rarely go to this section of the preserve during weekends since it is a real issue and I'd rather go somewhere sensible. However, during the mornings, especially from 5AM to 7:30AM on weekdays there is ample parking.
Squaw Peak is the second highest peak in Phoenix at 2608', Camelback Mountain has it by around 100'. The Squaw Peak Summit trail is 1.2 miles long and pops you up in 1200' of vertical. Approximately 4,000-10,000 folks hike this trail a month, which most likely puts it in second place as the most hiked trail in Arizona behind Bright Angel at the Grand Canyon. Check out http://phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikephx.html for more info.
Squaw Peak is a short hike, but very steep with treacherous footing. This is an excellent training hike if you are considering doing some hiking in the Grand Canyon or even a Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim. I've hiked into the Grand Canyon over 60 times and am on my 15th R2R2R this spring - so I'm all about getting vertical in the middle of an urban environment.
I am an early riser and I usually get on the Squaw Peak Summit Trail around 5:30AM. This time of year I use a Tikka Plus Halogen headlamp for the first ascent. It does cast a shadow over the rocky footing, but my night vision is poor and I'm accustomed to using headlamps for early morning hikes. Generally I carry two liters of water, an iPod Nano and some Emergen-C drink mix for the summit. All of this goes into a "fanny pack", but a hydration backpack will work just as well.
The first thing that strikes you as you begin the initial ascent up the Summit Trail is the relatively poor condition of the trail. It has been maintained in the past, but obviously Governor Janet's renaming did not have any grant money attached to it, (ouch - low blow by Krugie). Sections of the first tenth of a mile have been concreted, but this has eroded leaving 10" deep dirt pits with the existing concrete next to it. Some of the trail has also been "rip-rapped" - think Apian Way or Hermits Rest Trail at the Grand Canyon. This is when flat rocks are laid on edge facing up to form a natural drain off the mountain. This really works well, but can be a little difficult on the footing if you don't get up on your toes. It is far preferable to the man made dirt pits and I am thankful to the folks that took the time to lay down the rip-rap. The trail switches back and forth for the first half (.60 mile) with plenty of 16-20" step ups and jagged points of rock under foot. Even though the first half of the trail isn't as steep as the second half - I consider it much tougher due to the irregular footing. Plus, I never really get excited until I've worked hard enough to get a decent view. The half way point begins the hike up the main saddle of Squaw Peak and is full of great vistas.
The second half of the trail continues along the saddle and switches back over to the north side of the peak. This is a little bit of a cruiser for another tenth of a mile and it is best to conserve your energy for the top of the trail. After switching back over to the south side of the peak again you are ready to make a strong push up a series of switchbacks with very high steps on a narrow trail. I enjoy this section of the trail as it is the beginning of the "summit push" and I'm working with controlled breathing techniques. Shortly, you will find yourself along a short promenade looking down at the parking lots below...now come the steps. The first two series of steps take you up to an old metal pipe hitching post. Apparently, this was placed there by Biltmore Hotel cowboys to tie off horses, to service guests to the summit, it now serves as a resting bar for beleaguered hikers. However, I've rode a lot of horses and don't see how a horse could go that steep - of course the steps are man made from natural rock, and the trail may not of been as steep before the hitching post. Once clear of this area you are heading due north down another shorter promenade and you are faced with a very long set of steps, perhaps 80' vertical. This section of the trail is the "burner" you can smell the summit, you know you'll be there in a couple of minutes, but your quads are sending warning signals to your brain and you're doing your best to ignore and focus at the same time. A simple "chimney" rock climbing move at the top of the steps puts you withing 10' of the true summit which is a scramble and a beautiful view.
I am currently in full training for a Rim2Rim2Rim at the Grand Canyon in mid-May. I hike up Squaw Peak, down to the bottom and then go up for my second summit of the morning - it takes right at or a little under 2 hours with short rests at the summit. I do this five times a week. If I really push myself I can summit in less than 25 minutes, but usually I'm up there in around 27-28 minutes. It takes me 30 minutes to descend...due to frost-nipped toes from previous climbing expeditions in the Andes. I personally find the descent much tougher than the ascent, I've been using balancing techniques such as staying off my heels and on my toes to increase my balance points. I also try to "balance-walk" on the "curbs" near the bottom to increase the strength in my stabilizing muscles.
All in all, the Squaw Peak Summit Trail is a fast and effective way to train along with a great recreational hike for those a little less nuts. either way - you 're still a "peak bagger".
Best of Luck - Krugie
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